Under his Quixote label, veteran Napa Valley vintner Carl Doumani (Stags' Leap Winery) makes one of those big, brooding petite syrahs. You may think it's a typo, but contrary to the approach of most other winemakers working with petite sirah, Doumani prefers the spelling "petite syrah," recognizing that the grape's parents are syrah and peloursin.

Now, however, Doumani is releasing a more approachable petite syrah, in the Pretense. Unfortunately, Doumani says Pretense is a one-time-only wine, the consequence of a series of serendipitous happenings that began with the availability of the grapes from Oberti Family Vineyard in Suisun Valley.

"We give you 'Pretense,' with the assurance that now even those of modest means can have 'Pretense' in their cellar and on their dining table." - Carl Doumani

Tasting Notes: "Though its color is dense as night, the wine is immediately accessible. It's dry and medium bodied, with a smell of violets, a flavor that runs to both blackberries and raspberries, a satiny texture, and a finish that includes a snap of spice. The tannins are in full retreat."